RUNWAY MASHUP | Resort Begins

It's always summer in Jakarta (although for the past few days, rain has become our regular guest), so the notion of cruise can always sneak into my mind and tickle me to experiment with my wardrobe. Honestly, I have slowly directed my taste to something simpler for dressing (read: skinny pants meets loose shirt), thus flipping over style.com religiously is no longer in the top priority. I could care less about the ongoing trend and instead looking for shapes, textures, and styles that WORK for me.

As the designers are rushing to preview their newest resort installment, I am mesmerized by a handful of new approaches they employ. Dior has undoubtedly topped the pack, spelling the word future vigorously through immaculate techniques and clear vision for the once problematic house. Meanwhile DKNY interprets the trend differently; I think they are using the resort collection as a teaser for the full Spring/Summer 2014 installment. A sweet surprise is delivered by Gucci after Frida Gianini gave birth, a range of perfectly slouchy assemble is ready to steal the spotlight of the pre-season.

Christian Dior

Putting my initial skepticism toward Raf Simons who was appointed to helm Dior after dramatic departure of Galliano aside, the Belgian-born designer hit it, season after season. Interestingly, I do think that he does even better in pre-season, such as this resort one, and also couture. The industry has also seemed to grow deep liking for his masterful touch, for every battle he has with Slimane, Simons is the one adding his points. With never ending battle the press put between the helm at Saint Laurent and Dior, these two are taking their approaches further apart. The rebellious nature of Slimane is unbearable, but Simons is the engineer. He definitely steers the house to his aesthetic wisdom--making beautiful clothes for women who save a "ladylike" stamp in their bag.

This resort collection is no exception. Splurge of beautiful colours unendingly takes turn on the runway, with unusual silhouette such as the skirt over pants styling we are starting to see on the street. His adaptation is remarkably elegant, still edgy without degrading the feminine essence in it. Zipper and metal insertion later finish the whole look, perfecting modernity that breathes with the collection. And we should not even start with the shoes. Graceful pointy shoes that come season after season will never miss that lust-worthy tag. Just ample colours and variations of straps make everything look even better.

DKNY

Should someone think about how Donna Karan once described her label as accessible and contemporary, they should never miss how she has evolved into a respectable designer with improving expertise in ready to wear. Her resort collection is basically the kind of style I have been lusting these times--shirt, pants, blazer, and pointy shoes. I seriously think those shoes will be the champion on various blogs and are probably eyed by Zara as their inspiration. The sporty touch on high fashion has undeniably been echoed everywhere and although these are not entirely a breakthrough, DKNY manages to re-live the not-so-fashionable 90s period to a very respectable 2014. An element that should not be missed is the sequin, in silver and gold, making everything party-ready and of course, striking. A very intriguing resort, I shall say.

Gucci

Oh Frida. Even though an image of a Gucci woman, this body-conscious lady who is constantly on the search for pieces that complement her curves, will never really leave me, Frida Gianini raises the bar quite high this time. She steps out of her usual comfort zone that involves tons of Italian inspiration with seductive appeal and introduces new silhouette we usually stay away from: slouch. Strangely enough (or impressively enough, I should say) the slouch version of Frida for Gucci's resort is not something unfit, it is something desirable. A warm palette of cream, maroon, and mustard can easily win over the buyers and editors, meanwhile the silk pants will sneak in everyone's wardrobe as a staple item at ease. I also notice the small chunky heels and remember my own pairs that are super comfortable and versatile. I am most definitely Team Frida.

images are from style.com

ON RADAR | A Tale of Clothes

A vast of categories I have on the blog has intersected one to the others, so here I am slowly building a clearer distinction among each of them. What ON RADAR will narrate to you is everything about the newly found, fresh figures in the world of fashion. Not exclusively around the mode, this section also includes stories, newness, or any kind of thing/person that has not been heard before, but making a contribution to fashion.

To fulfill such characteristics of ON RADAR, I return to Not Just A Label, one of my trusted sources, to scout any emerging designers or interesting pieces that have been missed by the so-called-mainstream industry. Having read it somewhere, every day there is a new label born. This will definitely result in a very diverse clothes and styles, and of course, fiercer competitions.

Despite literal etymology of fashion that signifies wearing and making, a brand named Batson believes in the power of tales--using digital print to translate the inspiration. London based, Australian in origin, the designer, Bianca Batson has inspirations that gravitate around unusual things. For her Fall/Winter collection, she brings Dante Alighieri's Divine Comedy to live by presenting Inferno dress, Garden of Eden skirt, In Hell cape shirt, Seven Deadly Sins dress--quite a brave take for a world that values appearance more than the story behind.  

"I am always inspired by so many things… usually really odd things, from labdanum – an ingredient in a lot of perfumes - to Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy. I think the way that society moves in general is a huge influence too; the idea of sub-cultures and various fashion groups within society always have an influence on me."

Read an interview in Not Just A Label with the designer, Bianca Batson, here.

SOMETHING RAD | A Curious Case of Men's Clothes

Although the upper slice of fashion world is talking about everything punk and everything Gatsby right now, I insist on a minimalism note (still). It entices me how men's clothes sort of complete and emphasize women's sexuality without being vulgar. A womanly adaptation of men's attire also make room for more and better alteration, such as various cutting, metal insertion, and shorter length.

Even something as simple as a pair of pants was once considered manly and rebellious. Now the steal from the guys has been extended to tailored blazer, coat, loafers, and the most basic thing you ought to have in your wardrobe: a crisp shirt. I guess the line between masculinity and femininity has become blur over the course of years. The rise of unisex clothing signals that we ought to dress beyond gender boundaries. The presented imagery toward women who wear boyish clothes also changes. A woman cannot easily be considered manly even when she is wearing oversized blazer and tapered pants. Girls can simply slip heels on and a balance between male and female element is achieved.

As for accessories, the envelope-like clutches and everything-boxy bags can also be accounted to exude certain masculine vibe, especially when they are composed in neutral colours. A complete manly look accentuates power, as man is always portrayed as the celebrated-powerful being. That got me thinking, how about the XY chromosome borrows something from the XX chromosome? Maybe we can delve into it further later...

images: i-D magazine, street style aesthetics, fash-n-chips, style.com, camille over the rainbow, studded hearts, le fashion

WARDROBE INSPIRATION | Japanese Overloaded

In the big wave of everything Japanese, I never have thought that I would fall in their fashion sense. Although Japan is perceived as one of the capitals of fashion in Far East, I always think that they take it too far--too much styling, too many colours, way too heavy attitude. Niko and... has changed my mind, seeing how they incorporate each piece into a solid mix has made me grown a liking towards how easy and effortless what seems like everyday basics being put together. Here I have assembled some looks from their 30 Days Coordinate Project, those I utterly crave for.

The ooze of simplicity and comfort draw me in, something that is definitely in line with what I believe fashion is all about. What we wear should portray our "inner side" while we have to feel comfortable and confident in it. The lack of makeup and hairdo in each photo, although all of them are months apart, even highlight the light mood better, delivering such a warm and happy feeling. Women, thus, are in no need to bundle themselves in tight-fitting clothes and painful heels, when they can look even prettier in everyday basics.

I also admire the layering tricks and endless use of scarfs used throughout the lookbook. Remember that each photo is actually styled by different stylists (all are Japanese, I assume), yet there are conformity and a coherent aesthetic approach in every different month. From there on, I conclude that a solid foundation of a wardrobe should consist of a parka jacket (slightly oversized), stripe shirts (sleeveless, short sleeved, or long sleeved), a vast variety of scarfs, basic white, blue, and black shirts, loose dresses (you can dress them up or down), fitted trousers in neutral colours (I would go for white, blue, and black--again), A-line skirt, and a blazer.

Okay, I guess I went a little overboard by posting so many photos here. They can be my go-to reference whenever I open my wardrobe and feel a little lost in there. A major thanks to Miss Moss for posting about this Japanese goodies, otherwise I would never throw a hitch to them. Or Japanese fashion in general. Wouldn't this be a nice reminder of how pretty diversity is?

SOMETHING RAD | Badass Chick Always Wins

On a saccharine note of dressing and wearing your personality out, I have always eyed on "how to look like I don't care in a cool way" whenever I put together an outfit. It is not about the rebellious nature of women, it is about expressing individuality and saying goodbye to body hugging dresses. Flaunting indifference is what counts today, with comfort becomes number one factor. If you are not comfortable in your own skin and clothes, the rest will easily fall apart. Don't you agree?

My selection/inspiration to dress like a badass. Which one could you possibly try on? :D

images: Oracle Fox, All Saints via Studded Hearts, style.com Sydney's Street Style, after drk

FAVOURITES | Minimally Modern

As I am (still) working on the future issue of VOCIFEROUS, I retrace again my unconditional love for everything simple. The minimalism trend has persisted over season after season, only to be re-discovered and re-formulated in a very sleek way. The editorial from graceful T Magazine (the one which has undergone a logo simplification in such manner) proves that minimalism is here to stay.

image: T Magazine

SOMETHING RAD | It is Back

You might recall a post I wrote some time ago about the rise of fashion weeks in other areas than the big four fashion capitals, in which I mentioned a brand named Back. The edginess and slouch tingle me perfectly, leaving plenty of rooms to love their collection. This, for me, is the future of fashion, where inspiration and mood boards do not play such an important rule anymore, but rather how the clothes can define modern way of dressing. The likes of Celine, Stella McCartney, and Proenza Schouler put forward the new shape of feminine body while put aside the poetic narration. Practicality and individuality are instead celebrated.

Back lives the grunge feeling that belongs only to certain house, combining classic pieces such as oversized t-shirts, suits, and black skirts with contemporary construction and details such as metallic and fish net. My particular love is also bestowed upon their styling, resulting in a fresh take of sporty attitude. Time to dive in their archives of past collections and adopt the style.

images: www.annsofieback.com

STORY | Her

Through the coarse of the dark she makes her way to the sunlight. It either gives her hope or drops her some heat. The trembling bones and the flowing tears and the majestic femininity and the unrequited love for everything dark munch together, leave enormous desire to break free. No sacrifices no sweetness, it is pure freedom. And for that she always picks black. It is not bleak, it is not sad, it is just a beautiful canvas to put every thing together, until the day she finally breaks free.

images: AnOther, streetfsn

ON RADAR | Parisian Noir

Lest the good ol' days of fashion reign it, Paris would probably still be the right destination to kick in. The spectrum of black and its shades (not that it has any shades, really, but have you ever noticed closer how black's defiance reflects different shade on different fabric?) is nothing new to Paris' runway, or even the fashion world in general. The way it has transformed the proceeding season, however, is worth some time to take a closer look at.

The two boys at Viktor & Rolf definitely surprises me with their high mix of modern and classic on the most modern-classic palette: black and white. While everyone is probably drooling over Celine (exhibited below), I cast Viktor & Rolf as the top notch of the season this time (while waiting patiently for Tisci to work on his magic over Givenchy). Here, what seems as simple tuxedo is turned ambitiously with rock and roll vibe while the short dress gets little origami work it definitely deserves.

Phoebe Philo still employs her structural code for Celine this time (excuse my lazy typing) with feminine shapes and kooky cutting. What seems like mermaid skirts get makeover and it is suddenly up there in the cool gang, with what seems as long vest and square blouse. The clutch deserves another attention for sure, although up to this point I still haven't quite grasped the whole Celine-mania thing. The house protrudes true minimalism, you say?

Another structure day in Paris, now is from Kenzo. I cannot help but think that the shoes resemble Balenciaga's (before Wang, undoubtedly) although the reincarnation hits the soft spot this time. What used to be simple white shirt and black skirt are refined to couture-ish separates while on the other hand, magic eye prints are splattered just like that on comfy sweater and balloon wrap skirt. I trail on the majestic Kenzo work and even it is deemed quirky and not wearable and all, I will not change my mind.

Isabel Marant apparently takes her time off from everything Americana and soothes things down now. Her loyal followers will not be disappointed, I guarantee, with sharpness wisdom all over the collection. Leather and black are no new pairs, and so is blazer. For once it reminds me a bit of Balmain and Saint Laurent, but Ms. Marant has surely thought a lot about dressing down and investing in immaculate pieces, for which, these two looks suffice.

Lastly, all hail Dries Van Noten. I secretly admire the guy for his all work and humility, especially for bringing the grunge back last season (what's up, plaid?) and this collection is no exception. He overbearingly pours tons of feathers on the catwalk, being embroidered or sewn into sheer dress, apparently. Another game of proportion and material marry, I am in no place to complain. The clothes speak well for itself, without even the designer has to explain anything, except: pretty, pretty, pretty. Kiddin' folks, but that jacket is really something to invest in an ambivalence future. Won't you agree?

all pictures are from the generous style.com

THOUGHTS | Fa-Fa-Fashion

Over-pouring assertions and opinions and blahs of how fashion editorial should be, how a girl ought to carry herself, how nights and days are filled with youthful dream, not to mention the persistence of procrastination, given that I am not in my celebratory mood, this post will be a small ode to moodboards. Fashion drives us further than we should be, doesn't it? Fashion week is a fiesta, fashion magazine preys commercial and advertorials. Who am I to judge? So just indulge the moment in pretty things. No thinking required, really.

Just when I think I cannot love Proenza Schouler more (liar), my pupils went from tiny to large, in excitement. For the brand I long to have works in their motion, giving luxurious industry looking clothes I did not expect before. Mentioning it again here will not be a crime, I dare say, that the collection is formed as if Jack and Lazarro are given canvases to draw on, but instead of drawing, they restructure the canvas. Little paint here and there is a proof that this is both playful and extra serious job. Bipolar is in, don't you think?

Love, or whatever you refer it to, shows clearly even when you try to conceal it. I have witnessed a small fraction of fashion editorial world in my daily job, and overseen too many people trying to do the same thing. Maybe, just maybe, if someone is willing to step up and produce whatever they want, similar like what I witness in this Maison Kitsune photo, with the slightly blurry, undertone, and vintage-y looking photos, I will feel good. Again.

Come on. There are shows and there are shows. Yes, I firmly believe that without the colour-vaganza and intricate prints, in one way another great clothes will always find their way to the right hands. Just like a great magazine will sneak into the mind of their audience, or a small blog finds a way in their reader's heart. Right? RIGHT? J.W. Anderson has just won an award in the prestigious British Fashion Awards, now his autumnal turn seems to prove that he earns it. I have so much respects for the guy, shying away from the Balenciaga-ish cutting and silhouette, and injecting tons of his. The freshest of the season is emphasized on plain looking clothes with excellent fitting and quirky styling. That orange patch, red slit, and semi-cape top simplify our understanding of fashion.

Something to close the day, would be: You cannot buy great style. You cannot buy great mind. You cannot take both away from anyone.

HER FLAIR | Quirk Plethora

One of the luckiest jobs on earth, I should say, is being a fashion editor. You can throw every piece of desired piece you want, slide swiftly with the style of your own, and no one will scold you for dressing inappropriately. I happen to stumble upon a cute, little, albeit interesting personality, Leaf Greener. Mastering the art of mixing and the art of narrating a cute, memorable name, she excels in street style.

Mixing the formal and casual, playful and feminine, Ms. Greener seems to explore a fashion territory I am worry to delve into: layering. Maybe it is a matter of taste, maybe a certain luck also pushes in, her eyes for everything cute and unattainable to my purse are ephemerally fresh. I wonder what is next for the girl because I see Caroline Issa's path in front of this very young lady.

images are from various tumblrs

LOVE-WORTHY | Melted Snow

The mighty New York Fashion Week kicks back, showing all the Fall/Winter looks that suit the city's weather perfectly. Snow, albeit deemed as one of the most romantic, playful dream for girls, especially the tropical ladies who are lucky enough to get as much sun as they want the whole year, can act bitchy. When it melts, the splash will cover your shoes in dirty mud, leave alone wearing heels in the middle of melting snow. You can be happy, girls, when your man/eligible man who is willing to carry you is around.

So just wear your Margiela boots and stomp happily to the fashion venue for snow is no reason to leave the fancy shoes at home. Valentine is just around the corner and this could proportionately be one way to win his heart. No, really? If you think I am sharing dating tips here, think again.

Have you learned today's dressing in snow lesson, girls?

images are from the ever committed Tommy Ton at style.com